Victoria's Secret dumped hundreds of bras outside a recently closed store, and it reveals a dark truth about the fashion industry
A local news site reported this week that a Colorado woman had come across a dumpster full of hundreds of Victoria's Secret bras thrown out by a closing store nearby. Victoria's Secret told Business Insider that these items were sample products used in its fitting rooms at the store and were thrown out after it closed. Throwing or incinerating inventory that can't be sold but could be donated is a big issue in the retail sector and stores often resort to extremes measures such as these to protect their brand image. Nike, H&M, Burberry, and Eddie Bauer are among the major brands to have been called out for this in the past and were slammed for resorting to such un-environmentally friendly practices especially given that fashion is one of the most polluting industries. Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.
Melanie Gelinas was taking the trash out one night this week near her apartment in Centennial, Colorado when she spotted a few bras discarded on the ground near the dumpster. When she walked closer toward it, she noticed that there were piles of Victoria's Secret bras that had been thrown away. "It had to be hundreds," Gelinas, the owner of a South Philly Cheese Steaks restaurant in nearby Cherry Hills Village, told local news site 9News this week. "These are all going to a landfill. They could be going to a homeless shelter or a battered women's shelter," she added. "I just felt like it was such a waste of money and, you know, wouldn't a mom like to get a brand new bra from Victoria's Secret who's living in a shelter?" A spokesperson for Victoria's Secret confirmed that these discarded items had come from a Victoria's Secret store that had recently closed nearby. "We are sorry for how this may appear," the spokesperson said in a statement emailed to Business Insider. "Because this store was closing, we damaged out sample products including bras from our fitting rooms. All remaining inventory was reallocated to other stores." Fashion's dirty secret This incident is an example of a concerning tactic adopted by retailers where some often choose to throw away clothing that would be considered to be unsellable but not unusable rather than donate it. Several other major brands have been called out for doing similar things in the past. In 2017, a New Yorker spotted trash bags full of Nike sneakers discarded outside its store in Soho and found that the sneakers had been slashed from front to back to render them unwearable. Nike didn't explain why the shoes were slashed but said that they were not suitable for resale or donation so were discarded. Outdoor wear store Eddie Bauer was slammed on social media in 2017 after a shopper shared photographs of piles of its $200 to $400 coats and blankets cut up and thrown in the trash outside one of its stores in New York. At the time, the company confirmed the incident but said it was not company policy. Well-known brands often resort to these extremes to prevent their products from ending up in thrift stores or the off-price channel to protect their brand image. In some cases, stores have also resorted to burning excess inventory just to keep it out of these channels. H&M previously sent unwanted inventory to a power plant in Sweden, where the clothing was burned instead of coal to create energy. It said at the time that the burned items did not include usable clothing — only clothing that was unsafe for consumers. Luxury brands are some of the worst offenders here. In July 2018, British designer brand Burberry revealed in an earnings report that it had destroyed $37 million worth of unsold clothes and accessories in order to protect its brand. The news sparked an outcry on social media and Burberry issued a statement shortly after confirming that it would stop using this process. Not only could these garments be donated and used again but the environmental cost of these items ending up in a landfill or being incinerated is also significant. 26 billion pounds of textiles end up in a landfill each year It takes 2,700 liters of water to produce a T-shirt alone, helping to make the garment industry the second-most polluted after oil, according to The World Economic Forum. And the US Environmental Protection Agency estimates that 26 billion pounds of textiles end up in a landfill each year; some of these items are made of fabrics that also never decompose. Burning clothes isn't any better. This process releases carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases into the atmosphere, which contributes to global warming. Fast Company recently reported that burning clothes releases more carbon dioxide per megawatt-hour than coal and natural gas, for example. In February 2019, a UK parliament environmental committee produced a report on clothing consumption and sustainability in the fashion industry, which was recently cited by the BBC. According to the BBC, the report addressed the issue of incinerating clothing and said that this practice was causing harm to human health by "generating further emissions and air pollutants." Ultimately, the committee advised the environment to ban the burning of clothes. SEE ALSO: The rise and fall of Victoria's Secret, America's biggest lingerie retailer Join the conversation about this story » NOW WATCH: Applebee's made the best comeback of 2018. Here's how the restaurant chain turned around.
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Retailers are bracing themselves for a 'huge surge' of returns that could make their massive piles of unsold inventory even bigger
Returns are becoming a major issue for retailers as "nonessential" stores reopen and shoppers start to...Returns are becoming a major issue for retailers as "nonessential" stores reopen and shoppers start to bring in quarantine purchases that didn't work out. "There is going to be a huge surge," Tobin Moore, CEO of returns management startup Optoro, told Business Insider. Retailers are also creating new policies to safely process worn merchandise, like keeping items in "quarantine" for a period of time or trying out contactless returns. Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories. Retailers are bracing themselves for a flood of returns as they reopen stores. Now that stay-at-home orders have been loosened — to varying degrees — in all 50 states, some shoppers may be ready to part with items they purchased online while at home, or even in stores before restrictions began. Optoro, a Washington, DC-based startup that helps retailers including Target, Best Buy, and Ikea manage their returns processes, recently conducted a survey of 2,000 US consumers about their return habits while staying at home. More than 60% said they were holding on to at least one return while stores were closed. Since, according to Optoro, shoppers tend to prefer making returns and exchanges in stores over mailing items back, stores that are reopening appear poised to be inundated with returns. Meanwhile, some stores, including Target, that remained open as "essential" retailers, barred shoppers from making returns for a period of time. "There is going to be a huge surge," CEO Tobin Moore told Business Insider. "I would liken this to the holidays, when you see a return surge all at once after a big event, although this will be even more condensed." For many stores that were closed for weeks in response to the pandemic, a surge in returned merchandise could end up exacerbating a problem they have been trying to abate — that is, unsold inventory piling up in stores. "They're going to have to deal with a lot of excess they're trying to get out, and with getting new goods for the next season, and with a surge of returns coming in," Moore said. Lots of retailers have decided to extend their returns period to give shoppers more time to bring items back. Far from an ordinary returns process But then another question arises: How do you process clothing and other items that may have been in people's homes for an extended period of time during a pandemic? Nordstrom is putting shoes in "quarantine." American Eagle Outfitters erected bins for a "touchless" return process in stores, Chief Commercial Officer Andrew McLean told Business Insider. "As part of our comprehensive reopening plan, we worked with medical experts to create a seamless and efficient process which helps to ensure the health and well-being of both our store associates and customers," McLean said. He added that clothes "remain out of circulation for 72 hours before being steamed and returned to the floor." Gap Inc. stores are also holding merchandise for a period of time before putting it back out for sale. Moore said that he had heard of a retailer discussing processing returns outside during the summer, hoping that warm temperatures and sunlight could slow the spread of any bits of virus living on packages. But despite the extra safety measures retailers might have to implement during the pandemic, having customers make returns and exchanges in-store is still largely the preferred method. Shoppers who visit stores to make a return might spot something else they want to buy, plus it helps businesses to cut down on the waste that results from packaging items up and shipping them back. Shoppers can also get refunds and make exchanges more quickly when the process is done in stores. Overall, Moore said retailers' getting their whole returns process on the same system will be key in making sure they keep the whole process as efficient as possible. "The name of the game, especially now, is minimize the amount of touches in between getting that return back and getting it back to market," Moore said. SEE ALSO: TJ Maxx is slashing prices even more than usual as stores aggressively try to get rid of goods Join the conversation about this story » NOW WATCH: Why thoroughbred horse semen is the world's most expensive liquid
Victoria's Secret is the largest lingerie retailer in the US and has been for several decades....Victoria's Secret is the largest lingerie retailer in the US and has been for several decades. It has had a powerful role in defining what sexy is in the modern day via its racy lingerie and annual runway shows. But after achieving explosive success in the late 1990s and 2000s, the brand has struggled in more recent years and has been accused of losing relevance. Here's the story of the rise — and more recent fall — of the brand. Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories. You'd be hard-pressed to find anyone in the US who hasn't come into contact with Victoria's Secret in one way or another. Since the late 1990s, Victoria's Secret has been one of the best-known and most talked-about brands in the country — increasingly, not in ways that it might hope for. But it has had a powerful role in defining what sexy is in the modern day via its racy lingerie and annual runway shows and in its heyday, these enabled the company to achieve blockbuster sales and reach global status. Increasingly, the tide turned, however. Sales slipped, customers complained that quality had dropped, and analysts became more skeptical about the brand's future if it refuses to adapt in the era of #MeToo. In February, the company took action, announcing that it was selling a 55% stake in the Victoria's Secret brand to a private equity firm that promised to execute a major turnaround effort. L Brands' longtime CEO and chairman Les Wexner also stepped down from the company at that time after nearly six decades at the helm. But in April, the private equity company that was due to acquire a majority stake in the brand filed a lawsuit in which it sought to back away from the deal. And while L Brands said it would "vigorously defend" the lawsuit, just weeks later the company confirmed that the deal had officially fallen through. L Brands has since reshuffled its management team and is now focused on cutting costs at Victoria's Secret and bringing about change. Find out more about how the company achieved success —and stumbled more recently — below: Got a tip? Contact this reporter via encrypted messaging app Signal at +1 (646) 768-4716 using a non-work phone, by email to email@example.com, or Twitter DM at @MarySHanbury. SEE ALSO: Apply here to attend IGNITION: Retail, an event focused on the future of retail, in New York City on January 14. Victoria's Secret was founded in 1977 by American businessman Roy Raymond. Inspired by an uncomfortable trip to a department store to buy underwear for his wife, Raymond set out to create a place where men would feel comfortable shopping for lingerie. He wanted to create a women's underwear shop that was targeted at men. He named the brand after the Victorian era in England, wanting to evoke the refinement of this period in his lingerie. His vision was summed up by Slate's Naomi Barr in 2013: "Raymond imagined a Victorian boudoir, replete with dark wood, oriental rugs, and silk drapery. He chose the name 'Victoria' to evoke the propriety and respectability associated with the Victorian era; outwardly refined, Victoria's 'secrets' were hidden beneath." He went on to open a handful of Victoria's Secret stores and launched its famous catalog. By 1982, the company was making more than $4 million in annual sales, but according to reports, it was nearing bankruptcy at the time. It was at this point that Les Wexner swooped in. Wexner, who founded L Brands (formerly Limited Brands) was already making a name for himself in the retail world as he gradually built up an impressive empire. By June 1982, Limited — which had previously acquired Express and Lane Bryant — was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. One month later, under Wexner's leadership, the company acquired Victoria's Secret's six stores and its catalog for $1 million. Wexner turned Raymond's vision on its head, creating a store that was focused on women rather than men. He was closely following the European lingerie market of that time and wanted to bring this aesthetic to the US. So, he set out to create a more affordable version of European upscale brand "La Perla" — lingerie that looked luxurious and expensive but was affordable. And it worked. By the early 1990s, Victoria's Secret had become the largest lingerie retailer in the US, with 350 stores nationally and sales topping $1 billion. Source: The Telegraph The brand began to cement its image over the next few years. In 1995, its famous annual fashion show was born. The show, which was run by Ed Razek (longtime chief marketing officer of L Brands), became an iconic part of the brand's image. Razek and his team were responsible for hand-picking the models to walk the show. Because of this, he became one of the most important people in the modeling world, helping to launch the careers of Gisele Bündchen, Tyra Banks, and Heidi Klum. In 1999, the show aired for the first time online. Time described it as the "internet-breaking moment" of this era after 1.5 million viewers tried to tune in and crashed the site. Source: Time Meanwhile, the brand was also launching some of its best-known and most successful products, including its heavily padded Miracle Bra and Body by Victoria. Youtube Embed: //www.youtube.com/embed/Z4pl6H9uPCw Width: 560px Height: 315px Body by Victoria was a "blockbuster success" and more than doubled the sales volume of any other bra that Victoria's Secret had previously launched, Michael Silverstein wrote in his book, "Trading Up." Around this time (1997), the idea of the Victoria's Secret "Angel" came into play after a commercial featuring Helena Christensen, Karen Mulder, Daniela Peštová, Stephanie Seymour, and Tyra Banks ran to promote its "Angels" underwear collection. From then on, the term "Angel" become synonymous with the brand. Throughout the '90s and early 2000s, its commercials featured heavily made-up and scantily dressed Angels. Razek hired the best photographers and television directors in the world to make commercials for the brand. The runway shows became more lavish. In 2000, model Gisele Bündchen walked the runway in what was then the most expensive item of lingerie ever created, a $15 million diamond-and-ruby-encrusted 'Fantasy Bra.' It's been tradition for an Angel to wear a "Fantasy Bra" at every runway show since 1996. These change each year. In 2000, Sharen Jester Turney came on as CEO of Victoria's Secret Direct, heading up its catalog business. According to reports at the time, Turney wanted to remove the "hooker looks" in the catalog and made the aesthetic more like Vogue than Playboy. She became CEO of the whole brand in 2006. Under her nine-year tenure, the company thrived; sales increased by 70% to $7.7 billion. Source: Business Insider Turney abruptly stepped down in 2016 and was succeeded by Wexner as interim CEO. Wexner made a series of quick and fast changes: killing the catalog, swimwear, and apparel to focus solely on lingerie, the core part of its business. He also split the brand into three — Victoria's Secret Lingerie, Victoria's Secret Beauty, and Pink — and recruited a CEO for each division. Jan Singer became CEO of Victoria's Secret Lingerie in September 2016. Between 2015 and 2018, sales began to falter. Victoria's Secret was slow to adjust to a shift from padded and push-up bras toward bralettes and sports bras, missing out on a major fashion trend. More body-positive underwear brands such as Aerie, ThirdLove, and Lively cropped up, taking making share. Victoria's Secret was accused of failing to adapt to the times. Between 2016 and 2018, its market share in the US dropped from 33% to 24%. Some shoppers complained that the quality of its underwear had slipped. Source: Business Insider One of its biggest assets, teen-centric brand Pink, also began to struggle. Sales slipped, and it resorted to heavy discounting to woo shoppers. "We believe Pink is on the precipice of collapse," Jefferies analyst Randal Konik wrote in a note to investors in March 2018, commenting on the level of promotions in store. Some parents complained that Pink was being brought down by Victoria's Secret's over-sexualized ads. Its annual fashion show drew criticism for being outdated, and viewership slipped. In November 2018 Razek sent the internet into a frenzy after he made controversial comments about transgender and plus-size models. Razek said in an interview with Vogue that he didn't think the show should feature "transsexuals" because the show is a 'fantasy." "It's a 42-minute entertainment special. That's what it is," he said in the interview. Razek made a formal apology online but some of his critics called for him to step down. Read more: People slammed Victoria's Secret after its marketing chief made controversial comments about transgender models, but he didn't resign. This could be why, according to former executives. Less than a week after Razek's comments went viral, Singer resigned. Source: Business Insider Singer was replaced by John Mehas, who took over the role at the start of 2019. Mehas had his work cut out for him. Same-store sales at Victoria's Secret were down 3% in 2018, and was gradually losing market share to new companies. Plus, he had angry shareholders to deal with. In March 2019, activist shareholder Barington Capital sent a letter to Wexner, laying out recommendations to improve growth at Victoria's Secret in order to "unlock substantial value." In the letter, Barington's CEO, James A. Mitarotonda, called out the company's brand image as being "outdated." "Victoria's Secret's brand image is starting to appear to many as being outdated and even a bit 'tone deaf' by failing to be aligned with women's evolving attitudes towards beauty, diversity, and inclusion," he wrote. Read more: An activist shareholder is urging Victoria's Secret parent to update 'tone-deaf' brand image to boost sales Barington called out the lack of diversity in its board of directors as being an issue for the brand. At the time, of the 11 board members, nine were men. It seems Victoria's Secret took this criticism to heart. After acknowledging the letter in a statement, it appointed two new female board directors — Sarah E. Nash and Anne Sheehan — and made steps to address the comments about the brand image being outdated. It hired a more body-inclusive model. While she is not a plus-size model, fans praised the company for its decision to take on Hungarian model Barbara Palvin as one of its newest Angels. Instagrammers celebrated a post starring Palvin for being more body-inclusive, as they perceived her to be curvier than some of the brand's other models. "This model actually looks healthy..& I'm loving it!" one Instagram user wrote. "At last! A real human body," another said. It also hired its first openly transgender model. Brazilian transgender model Valentina Sampaio, shared a photograph of herself on Instagram in August tagging the Victoria's Secret Pink brand along with the hashtags: "campaign," "vspink," and "diversity."A day later, she shared a video of herself with the caption "Never stop dreaming." Her agent later confirmed that she had signed a contract with Victoria's Secret. The same day, Wexner announced that Razek would be resigning in the middle of August in a memo sent out to employees. Source: Business Insider And on November 21, the company confirmed that it had officially canceled its runway fashion show that year. During a call with analysts after reporting its third-quarter earnings results, L Brands CFO Stuart Burgdoerfer responded to a question about whether the fashion show would run this holiday season. "We will be communicating to customers, but nothing similar in magnitude to the fashion show," he said. Wexner previously told employees in May that Victoria's Secret was "rethinking" the show. And Victoria's Secret model Shanina Shaik — who has walked in several of its fashion shows — told The Daily Telegraph in Australia in July 2019 that the annual show was off this year. While these were potentially positive changes, the brand found itself caught up in a new challenge in the summer of 2019: its CEO and the company being linked to convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. Epstein managed Wexner's money for several years, and former company executives told the Wall Street Journal that he tried to meddle in Victoria's Secret's business, offering input on which women should be models. Some of Epstein's victims came forward saying that he used his connection to Victoria's Secret to coerce them into sexual acts. L Brands' board of directors announced that it had hired an outside law firm to review its relationship with Epstein. In September, Wexner addressed his ties to Epstein at L Brands' investor meeting. "At some point in your life we are all betrayed by friends," Wexner said. "Being taken advantage of by someone who was so sick, so cunning, so depraved, is something that I'm embarrassed I was even close to. But that is in the past." Read more: Former employees reveal what the billionaire head of Victoria's Secret is like as a boss as he faces backlash over his ties to Jeffrey Epstein In February, the company announced that Wexner would be stepping down as chairman and CEO of L Brands but would stay on as chairman emeritus and sit on the board of directors. At the same time, it announced that it was selling a 55% stake in Victoria's Secret to private equity firm Sycamore Partners. In a statement to the press announcing the news, Wexner said that Sycamore has "deep experience in the retail industry and a superior track record of success," and that it "will bring a fresh perspective and greater focus to the business." In March, the coronavirus pandemic swept across the US and Victoria's Secret was forced to shutter its stores. While its brick and mortar locations remain closed at the time of writing, its online store has since reopened. At the end of April, Sycamore filed a lawsuit to back out of the deal, alleging that Victoria's Secret's actions taken during the pandemic to close stores, cut back on new inventory, and not pay rent for the month of April were in violation of the agreement that the two parties had made in February. L Brands immediately issued a statement saying that a termination of the agreement is "invalid," and that it would "vigorously defend" the lawsuit and "pursue all legal remedies to enforce its contractual rights." But on May 4, L Brands announced that the deal with Sycamore had officially fallen apart. L Brands said that it had come to a "mutual agreement" with Sycamore to "terminate" the deal. "Like all retailers, the company faces an extremely challenging business environment," future L Brands' board chair Sarah Nash said in a statement to the press. "Our Board believes that it is in the best interests of the company, our stockholders and our associates to focus our efforts entirely on navigating this environment to address those challenges and positioning our brands for success rather than engaging in costly and distracting litigation to force a partnership with Sycamore." The company also announced that it had reshuffled its management team and said it is focused on "implementing significant cost reduction actions and performance improvements at Victoria's Secret." This includes permanently closing as many as 250 Victoria's Secret and Pink stores in the US and Canada in 2020. Source: Business Insider
Sycamore Partners will not acquire a majority stake in Victoria's Secret, according to a statement from...Sycamore Partners will not acquire a majority stake in Victoria's Secret, according to a statement from L Brands on Monday. The private equity firm had valued the lingerie brand at $1.1 billion in February, and planned to acquire a majority stake. In April, Sycamore filed suit against L Brands, arguing that Victoria's Secret's response to the coronavirus pandemic had constituted a breach of contract. "Our Board believes that it is in the best interests of the company, our stockholders and our associates to focus our efforts entirely on navigating this environment to address those challenges and positioning our brands for success rather than engaging in costly and distracting litigation to force a partnership with Sycamore," future L Brands board chair Sarah Nash said in a statement. Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories. Sycamore Partners was all set to acquire a majority stake in Victoria's Secret. For the lingerie brand's parent company L Brands, it was all part of the plan to spin off one of its most recognizable properties. But now, after a global pandemic and a lawsuit filing, the deal with Sycamore has officially fallen apart, according to a statement retail holding company L Brands sent out Monday In a statement sent to Business Insider, L Brands announced that it had come to a "mutual agreement" with Sycamore to "terminate" the company's previously agreed-upon sale of Victoria's Secret. Private equity firm Sycamore Partners had previously been interested in acquiring a 55% stake in the apparel and lingerie brand for $525 million. The private equity firm valued Victoria's Secret at $1.1 billion in February. The proposed deal between L Brands and Sycamore Partners has been in trouble for some time. In April, L Brands saw its shares crash after a Bloomberg report reported that the private equity firm was attempting to back out. Victoria's Secret endured furloughs, sourcing interruptions, and mass store closures in March, during the coronavirus pandemic. By April, Sycamore had filed a lawsuit arguing that L Brands' response to the coronavirus — including furloughing employees and failing to pay rent — had posed a breach in contract. "Like all retailers, the company faces an extremely challenging business environment," future L Brands' board chair Sarah Nash said in a statement. "Our Board believes that it is in the best interests of the company, our stockholders and our associates to focus our efforts entirely on navigating this environment to address those challenges and positioning our brands for success rather than engaging in costly and distracting litigation to force a partnership with Sycamore." L Brands still maintains a goal of spinning off the Victoria's Secret brand — which is made up of Victoria's Secret Lingerie, Victoria's Secret Beauty, and PINK — into "a separate, standalone company," according to the statement. The announcement from L Brands also outlined a number of key leadership changes for the company. L Brands CEO and founder Les Wexner — who came under fire last year for his ties to Jeffrey Epstein — is set to step down as CEO and chairman of the board of L Brands, although he will retain the title of chairman emeritus. Bath & Body Works CEO Andrew Meslow will replace Wexner as CEO of L Brands. Sarah Nash will chair the company's board. On the Victoria's Secret front, L Brands CFO Stuart Burgdoerfer will take on the role as interim CEO. L Brands' statement on Monday said that the legal battle between the two firms has come to an end. "In connection with the termination of the Victoria's Secret transaction, L Brands and Sycamore Partners agreed to settle all pending litigation and mutually release all claims," the statement said. "We are implementing significant cost reduction actions and performance improvements at Victoria's Secret while continuing to drive strong growth at Bath & Body Works. We will continue to make decisions and take actions with the best interests of all our stakeholders and the future of our company in mind," Nash said.SEE ALSO: The rise and fall of Victoria's Secret, America's biggest lingerie retailer Join the conversation about this story » NOW WATCH: Victoria's Secret is closing dozens of stores this year — here's why the brand has failed to keep up